The Travelling Life of Silvan Colani
June 2003 - Mt Fuji Expedition 2003
Co-lead by Daniel Rauti and Silvan Colani, the Mt Fuji Expedition 2003 was launched with the aim to 1) climb Japan's most famous volcano and highest point in the country and 2) engage in serious "iki-iki" (Japanese battle cry for drinking beer in large quantities).
The following is the official log of the expedition:
Friday, 11.07.2003
1530 hrs Expedition arrives at Tokyo Narita, where it is met by driver for transfer to Mt Fuji base
1607 hrs Expedition stuck in Tokyo traffic, fears of falling behind schedule.
1745 hrs First sighting of Mt Fuji with strange cloud formation overhead. Weather stable but signs ominous.
1812 hrs Arrival at Mt Fuji Station no. 5, wind N/NW, 30 miles/hr, temperature 15 degrees Celsius
1841 hrs Expedition lost. Cannot find Sato-Koya hut. Ask for help at "Coffee shop no. 1". Proprietor offers hot coffee to expedition members.
1900 hrs Climbing starts at 2308 m, initially through thick undergrowth and bush land. Target is to reach Station 8 (3100 m) within 3 hrs, i.e. 2200 hrs.
1959 hrs Expedition reaches Station 7 at 2765 m. Conditions drizzly, wind speeds increase with altitude; expedition members in excellent shape, spirits are high; expedition 31 mins ahead of schedule. Co-leader Rauti suggests celebrating early achievement with "iki-iki", co-leader Colani advises against due to altitude concerns. Climb continues.
2109 hrs Expedition reaches Station 8 at 3100 m, 51 mins ahead of plan. Climb from Station 7 to 8 strenuous over steep rocky terrain. Visibility low despite full moon due to heavy cloud cover. Headlamps and torch indispensable. View down the mountain spectacular, however, with nearby cities brightly illuminated in an otherwise dark and barren landscape.
Route generally free of other climbers; occasional parties overtaken including French, American and Japanese contingents. Co-leaders decide to rest at Station 8 and continue climb at 0200 hrs in order to reach summit by sunrise (0428 hrs). Cup noodles and four cans of beer ("iki-iki") for dinner at JPY 3600 (USD 30). Accommodation in bunk with sleeping bag for JPY 5750 (USD 50). German expedition passes hut but decides to press for Station 9 despite deteriorating health conditions of second team member. Decision questionable.
2200 hrs Expedition member retire to sleeping bag.
Saturday 12.7.2003
0000 hrs Commotion in hut as various parties depart for summit. Expedition members resting comfortably.
0030 hrs Heavy rain and thunderstorms raging outside the hut. Expedition members very comfortable.
0045 hrs Heavy snoring recorded. Co-leader Rauti cleared of initial suspicion as noise emanates from rival team.
0130 hrs Heavy rain continues to pound against roof. Expedition members resting comfortably.
0200 hrs Expedition members resting very comfortably. Co-leader Colani fails to notice alarm clock due to effects of high altitude and "iki-iki".
0255 hrs Shock and panic as expedition members realize failed wake-up call. Emergency meeting is called for among co-leaders in sleeping bag. Weather conditions still appalling - presumably, since neither expedition member dares to step outside. Co-leaders unanimously vote for Plan B, which calls for further rest until weather conditions improve. Sunrise no longer an objective.
0444 hrs Rainfall barely audible. Co-leaders decide to continue the mission. Powerbar and water for breakfast.
0530 hrs Climbing continues for straight push to the summit. Japanese climbing party emptying stomach 200 m from the hut, obviously feeling the effects of high altitude. The climbing is tough and mind numbing, following what feels like an endless zigzag path up the volcanic rock in a steady angle. The top is constantly shrouded in mist and rain sets in, occasionally heavy, with strong winds. Since neither expedition member has waterproof pants (nor underpants), the combined effects of rain and cold wind creates a frozen sensation from the groin downwards. Ahead, a number of colorful dots stand out in the otherwise barren landscape, representing mostly Japanese climbers in fashionable rain gear. A thick cloud cover hangs far down the mountain through which one can occasionally glimpse one of the five lakes around Mt Fuji. Despite harsh conditions, the scenery is spectacular.
0728 hrs Exhausted but joyous, the expedition reaches the crater at 3705 m! In traditional Japanese style, the top of the ascent route features souvenir shops, restaurants and colorful plastic toilets. There is no time for rest, however, as the mission must continue to the highest point of the volcano - and Japan - which is some 30 mins further along the crater. Weather conditions on the crater are most hostile, which jet-stream force winds that blow thick clouds across the volcano. Temperatures are close to freezing and visibility in the mist almost nil. The occasional glimpse into the volcano is stunning, with a combination of steep black rock and snow. There are few other climbers further along the crater, probably for fear of being blown off the mountain!
0759 hrs The expedition reaches the top of Japan! Up a few steps on a rocky outcrop, at 3775.63 m, stands a small observatory. The cheers of joy and congratulations are barely audible against the heavy winds. But celebrations are due, with the expedition emergency supply of Asahi beer disappearing quickly ("iki-iki"). To warm our frozen bodies, co-leader Rauti produces a flask of whisky, carried all the way from base camp. Summit photos are taken with the flags of Liechtenstein and Japan.
Completing the perimeter of the volcano, the expedition gets temporarily lost inside the crater but eventually finds itself back on track.
0835 hrs Expedition members return to crater huts for celebratory "lunch" of salami, cheese and more beer ("iki-iki"), warming soaked clothes over a fire.
0945 hrs Expedition starts descent of Mt Fuji, which follows a different route from ascent. It is a seemingly endless path of switchbacks that descend over 1300 m down the mountain.
1155 hrs The expedition arrives at the base camp "Coffee shop no. 1" where members are greeted with sausages and more beer ("iki-iki"). A short walk leads back to Station 5 from where a bus carries the worn-out expedition members back to Tokyo.
1525 hrs Expedition arrives in Shinjuku, Tokyo from where it proceeds by underground to Urban Base Camp in Roppongi, the heart of Tokyo's nightlife.
1800 hrs Showered and shaven, expedition members descend into the entertainment hub of Roppongi, scouting for Happy Hours. A reconnaissance mission proceeds across the district in order to familiarize expedition members with the terrain. Happy Hour is surprisingly quiet, but the co-leaders are confident that things will improve as the mission proceeds into the night.
1900 hrs Following a suspicion by co-leader Rauti that American-themed venues may be busier, the expedition proceeds to Hard Rock Café and TGIF which indeed are packed. "Iki-iki".
2045 hrs Expedition establishes Advanced Base Camp at Motown 1. Heavy dancing and "iki-iki" ensue.
2255 hrs The expedition moves to Velfarre, touted as Roppongi's hippest and liveliest club. Packed to capacity and pumping trance and house music, it very much lived up to its reputation. Expedition members in good spirits but feeling the strains of the mission in their legs.
Sunday, 13.7.2003
0100 hrs Exploring deeper into the underworld, a scientific mission ventures to Gaspanic Club, a dark, metallic modern disco where female customers can dance on the bar. More "iki-iki".
0125 hrs Following two local guides, the expedition re-locates to Club 99 Gaspanic, a hiphop dance club packed to the limit. While the young and energetic crowd finds the expedition's approval, the music does not.
0210 hrs Another camp is established in a salsa-dancing club of which neither expedition co-leader can remember the name. Both recall continued dancing and "iki-iki", however.
0258 hrs Excessive "iki-iki" and lack of solid food results in severe starvation and critical loss of energy. The expedition sets out for Hard Rock Café where the kitchen is re-opened for the team and two "Mt Fuji Burgers" are served with extra guacamole. No "iki-iki", just water.
0330 hrs Strengthened and freshly motivated, the expedition heads for Motown 2, rejecting tempting offers for massage along the way. Making contact with local villagers, expedition members exchange tales from their journey and enjoy more "iki-iki". Weakened legs unable to support more dancing.
0500 hrs The expedition exits Motown 2 and finds it has missed the second sunrise in as many days. Despite the early hour and dawning light, the streets of Roppongi are packed. More offers of massage are rejected and the team retreats to its Urban Base Camp for a good night's (day's?) rest.
1400 hrs Expedition members awaken with sore muscles and heavy heads. The mission is officially declared an all-out success.
If you thought this report was funny, wait until you read
the folllowing Japanese account of the Mt Fuji ascent.