The Travelling Life of Silvan Colani
April 2007 - Laos
The Lao PDR (People’s Democratic Republic) is – like the DPRK (the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, better known as North Korea) – a complete misnomer since the country is not very democratic at all. And like its military-run neighbor Myanmar (Burma) and “strongman ruled” Cambodia it tends to get a bad rap (or none at all) in the international press. As a result, the country only sees a fraction of the tourists that pass through Thailand annually (which, incidentally, is currently also under military rule). The perfect place, therefore, if you want to avoid the crowds.
I’ve been to Laos before, of course, in 2002 with my friend and Best Man Martin on an epic motorbike journey that included a crazy side trip in search for the mysterious airstrip in Long Cheng used by the CIA for their bombing raids during the Vietnam War (code name Lima Site 20A – click here for this must read adventure!).
Five years on – married and a much more sensible person – I decided to return to Laos with my wife for an Easter break to this thoroughly enchanting and peaceful country. We swapped the motorbikes for a Ford Ranger pick-up truck, which I would describe as a standard South-East Asian bully-of-the-road vehicle: big, robust and surprisingly fuel-efficient! You can rent one without much fuss for US$ 70 per day from the guys at Asia Vehicle Rental.
| Roads
Having read the above, we stuck mostly to the 20% of asphalted road along the main route from Vientiane to Luang Prabang and back. And once you’re out of the capital – and Vientiane with a population of 600,000 is not exactly a metropolis either – traffic is very light with stray chicken and dogs the major road hazard.
|
But my, things have changed in five years! Tubing must now be on the “Top 10 Things To Do in Asia for Backpackers” and the locals are getting in on the act. As soon as you round the first bend in the river loud music comes blaring out of the jungle and enterpreneuring locals invite you to buy a cold Beerlao and jump off their self-constructed platforms and giant swings into the river. Something like “AJ Hacket Meets Apocalypse Now”! There are at least 10 to 20 such ‘drink and jump’ places of different size along this short stretch of water, all with loud music and full of white faces.
Now I’m the first guy to support a steady supply of cold beer and I readily admit having enjoyed jumping off a few of these contraptions myself, but the original experience of peacefully floating down the river with a warm Beerlao in hand – because we had to bring it all the way from the guesthouse – is definitely dead. And judging from the rapid construction activity along the river, Vang Vieng I’m afraid, is slowly but surely going down the tubes (pun intended). The old lady at Bungalow Thavansouk seemed equally in despair over the growing construction and commercialization, despite the obvious benefits to her business (what used to be her garage is now an additional guesthouse). She seemed genuinely happy to welcome a return visitor from ‘the good old days’.
|
Health
I was amused by the above health section in the Lao National Tourism Guide. Even more amusing was our waiter’s answer on the first morning of our trip when I was looking for some eggs on the otherwise very diverse breakfast buffet. “I’m sorry, sir” he said when asked as to why there were no eggs, “but we have the bird flu.” Good to know, I guess. |
Luang Prabang
Nestled at the confluence of the mighty Mekong River and the Nam Khan, Luang Prabang is an enchanting little town that combines crumbling French colonial architecture (some beautifully restored) with over thirty Buddhist temples dating back to the 16th to 28th century. The city is on the Unesco World Heritage list.
Unlike Angkor Wat, in its remote jungle setting or the vast expanse of temples in Bagan (Burma), Luang Prabang is a ‘living city’ where active monastic life mixes with day-to-day activities. The best way to experience this unique combination is to get up at 6am for the giving of the alms to the monks. A long procession of orange-clad monks will make its way through town to collect sticky rice and other foods from the locals for whom this daily ritual is an important form of ‘earning merit’ in the Buddhist philosophy. Tourists are welcome to join in as long as you remain respectful of the tradition and its meaning.
Luang Prabang is charmingly relaxed and laid-back. You can easily spend a day aimlessly roaming its streets and alleys and visit some of the 32 wats (pagodas).
Thanks to its World Heritage Site status, much of the local architecture is beautifully preserved. We stayed at the Les 3 Nagas boutique hotel, lovingly restored with a vintage Citroen out front that sends you straight back into a different time, full of charm and serenity. The same group also runs the delightful Le Cafe Ban Vat Sene just down the road. For the best local food, however, I would recommend the Three Elephant Cafe (the eggplant and bamboo shoot dishes are divine!) just opposite the Villa Santi – but not to be confused with another L'Elephant restaurant a street further down (nice looking but very bland food). Another excellent choice for both local and Western cuisine is the Swiss-run Blue Lagoon Cafe. Try the chicken Zurichoise with Roesti or Spaetzli!
| Happy New Year
We visited the country just a week before the Lao New Year, which is celebrated from 15-17 April. As in Thailand, it is customary to douse one another with water to wash away old sins. In Luang Prabang the local kids were starting to get in the spirit of the festival by soaking unsuspecting motorists and pedestrians alike. After having been given an unexpected mid-afternoon shower I decided to invest 25,000 kip into a massive water gun and to retaliate with a ‘drive-by shooting’ from the back of our Ford Ranger! It’s all good fun and I would strongly recommend a visit to Luang Prabang during the New Year.
|
| Money
The local currency – the Kip – like its Vietnamese cousin – the Dong – only comes in large denomination. Change a hundred dollars into kip and you become an instant millionaire! Inflation must be running high because whereas five years ago everything – a beer, a t-shirt or a temple entry – cost 10,000 kip or “one dohlaa”, now everything is 20,000 kip or “two dohlaa”. But overall, Laos is of course still dirt cheap. Consider this:
|
After two and a half days we headed south on Rte 13 for the 350kms drive back to the capital; up and down the valleys, in and out of the mist and fog. It’s a winding road for much of the way and I counted an average of 125 bends per 10kms. The most spectacular section from Muang Phu Khun to Kasi offers beautiful views and exciting driving – with fully loaded buses charging at you on the wrong side of the road!
It took us over four hours to lunch at Vang Vieng, where “The Simpsons” were playing on four TVs across the restaurant. Welcome to Laos, backpacking style!
Another three hours of hot, sticky and dusty driving brought us back to Vientiane, where we spent another night at the charming new Green Park Boutique Hotel.
We spent the evening on a stroll through the capital. Whereas I would argue that you should always stop by in Phnom Penh on the way to Angkor, you could easily give Vientiane a miss en route to Luang Prabang. While the riverside setting on the Mekong is similar for both capitals, Vientiane is very much lacking in charm and ambiance. It might look better during the day, but at night it’s mostly drab and dusty. The Bor Pen Nyang bar on the fourth floor by the riverside is a far cry from the charm of the FCC in Phnom Penh. Dinner at La Terrasse, however, was wonderful and the return trip to the hotel on the back of a small Isuzu pick-up truck was a dusty, yet joyful, experience!
More information:
Lonely Planet: Laos – buy a new copy! My 2002 edition was hopelessly outdated.
www.destination-laos.net
www.visit-laos.com
www.laopdr.com
www.ecotourismlaos.com
Final Note:
The new Suvarnabhumi airport at Bangkok is clearly the worst airport built in recent history. While visually appealing from the outside, on the inside it has the ambiance of a subway construction site. Despite its size, the terminal feels small and uncomfortable and the lighting – where available –is cold and ugly. Our departure lounge was pitch black save for two bright spot lights at the entrance to the gate. The trolleys are already falling apart. I surely miss good old Don Muang Airport!
Go Back