The Travelling Life of Silvan Colani
February 2003 - Yunnan Province, China
It's hard to believe, but I finally discovered a really nice place in China (apart from Hong Kong, of course)! I mean no offense to the Chinese people, but you know how it is with many of their top tourist spots: they tend to be overrated, overcrowded and overpriced "attractions" in otherwise gray and polluted cities, far from most people's idea of an idyllic holiday destination.
Lijiang, in china's Yunnan province, is a real gem. Nestled in a valley at 2400 meters above sea level this ancient city enjoys an excellent - albeit somewhat cold - climate. The air is fresh and crisp, which is very rare for china. There are some serious mountains nearby, such as the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which rises to over 5500 meters. However, to get up close with the mountain, you have to queue with herds of Chinese tourists for three (!!!) hours, just to ride a rusty chairlift up the hill. To get down it's another hour in the queue, so you better give this a miss.
You can anyway skip most of the "official" tourist sites because the real attraction is the old town of Lijiang itself. Criss-crossed by canals and a maze of narrow streets, this World Heritage Site is full of character. It's a real town with real people, not just some re-constructed tourist village. There are cozy cafes and restaurants all along the canals, where you'll find the local Naxi people going about their daily lives. I'm told that Yunnan province is home to almost half of China's over fifty minorities and the Naxi, a matriarchal society where women rule (what a scary thought…) are one of them. Descendants from Tibet, the Naxi are easily recognized by their dark, tanned features and colorful local attire. The only annoying thing about them is a weird-shaped flute, with which they play a highly repetitive tune, presumably to entertain - but I would rather call it a form of torture!
At night, Lijiang is particularly pretty, with lanterns illuminating stalls and alleys. Food is interesting, plentiful and very cheap. A full meal for four with a bottle of beer would never set us back more than 50 Yuan (ca. USD 8). For accommodation, you can stay at traditional Naxi courtyard guesthouses. These are authentic and extremely charming family run hotels with all necessary amenities, costing as little as 160 Yuan (USD 20) for a double room per night.
The gateway to Lijiang is Kunming, about 45 mins by plane. While more like your average big Chinese city, Kunming is a lot more pleasant than what I've seen elsewhere in China. Again, the climate and elevation make a lot of difference. At 1800 meters, the city sits in a cool and refreshing atmosphere. The sky was azure blue and the city is renown for its horticulture (that's flowers, in case you don't know). It is also an ethnically very diverse place, with different minorities present as well as a certain Muslim influence. The latter results in an excellent cuisine with tasty lamb and goat cheese dishes. A back street off the city center roundabout is packed with street stalls and Muslim restaurants (which sell beer, by the way!)
A major tourist attraction is the Stone Forrest, about two hours' drive from the city. It's a massive collection of limestone pillars, apparently formed when the entire area was under the ocean millions of years ago. Some formations have names like "big elephant" or "mouse eating cheese" and with some imagination you might actually recognize those. Because of the natural setting and lack of tackiness, it actually is a nice spot and worth the trip.
Whenever traveling to China, you are bound to be amazed by the ongoing progress. I was particularly impressed by the security arrangements for the domestic flight. Unlike in certain other Asian countries, these guys took their job seriously, confiscating un-opened drink packs in the hand luggage and pointing out a spelling mistake in one of my friend's boarding passes (the name was written with a "v" instead of a "u").
The thing that has not changed, however, despite years of economic progress and opening to the world, are the habits of spitting, burping, coughing and smoking in public. Spitting, in particular, is a national pastime and is rumored to be included as a new discipline at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Smoking is as pervasive, from any restaurant to the cabin of your plane (where it's officially banned). Although I'm a non-smoker, I can appreciate the sense of freedom of being able to light up anywhere, anytime. This is particularly ironic when comparing China to the United States, which proclaims itself "the capital of freedom" but where smoking in public is likely to land you in jail.
In conclusion, Lijiang is a destination not to be missed. As an alternative to the Dragonair package tour via Kunming, you may consider taking a 2 hr direct flight from Shenzhen. Stay at a local Naxi guesthouse and do all the sightseeing on your own. It will make a delightful yet inexpensive weekend getaway from Hong Kong.
Go Back